One of the most ridiculous criticisms on consumer websites and social media about Arguello, the new Mexican restaurant in the converted officers’ club at the Presidio, is that owner Traci Des Jardins is an Anglo.
That argument doesn’t track on several counts. For one thing, it’s nonsense that having a certain ethnic heritage makes you inherently better at producing the cuisine. Secondly, Des Jardins’ mother and grandparents are Mexican, and she grew up with the cuisine.
If the food is good, it’s not just because of ethnic background; it’s because the chef has the passion, reverence and integrity to make it, regardless of the style. And from my three visits to Arguello, we can check off those boxes.
Des Jardins is a talented chef, whether she’s creating Latino, French, Italian or American food. Arguello offers classic preparations with a modern sensibility — an uncharacteristically short menu for this style of cuisine, for example, with only eight appetizers and four main plates.
The space also supports a more contemporary approach — even more so than the Commissary, the nearby Spanish-California restaurant Des Jardins opened earlier this year.
There’s a rustic elegance in the wood-beamed ceiling, the tile floor and the circular iron chandeliers that speaks to the building’s history. The space has an open feel, thanks to the windows and the doors that open to the officers’ lounge. Outside there’s a modern 24-seat patio with a fireplace which can be used to produce tortillas and other items. The 56-seat dining room is separated from the lounge and open kitchen by a shoulder-high partition.
The menu includes an excellent guacamole ($6.50) with warm, salty chips that shatter in layers with each bite, and spicy pumpkin seeds ($2) that go with the extensive Tequila and cocktail list. On one visit, however, it seemed the chips, which can also be ordered with two house-made salsas ($3.50), tasted as if they were fried in old oil because they left a harsh, bitter aftertaste.
The smaller plates include an excellent albondigas soup ($9) with meatballs, potato, crunchy tortilla strips and an intense chicken broth with a touch of heat, unleashed in layers. Crisp chicken taquitos ($11) look similar to those found in grocers’ freezers, but the chicken filling is fresh, as is the avocado and tomatillo salsa and the bed of shredded iceberg lettuce.
Ingredients are noticeably pristine, as shown in the salad with cold crunchy escarole ($13) with roasted squash, queso fresco and a cumin-pumpkin seed vinaigrette. There’s also a salad of Little Gems ($9) with radishes, cilantro and cotija cheese; and a stellar reinvention of a classic combination: jicama sticks with citrus and avocado in a nicely piquant dressing ($13).
The quality also shows on the mushroom quesadilla ($10.50) with a pleasing medicinal touch from epazote and a tender golden crust.
While many people shy away from tongue ($14), it’s a dish that shows the more complex, rustic side of Mexican cuisine. A stack of thick triangles of seared meat are complemented by chayote, slightly crunchy pickled vegetables and sauce estofada, a complex mole with tomato, capers, olives and a hint of sweetness.
The four larger plates include a vegetarian option with roasted squash, poblanos and patties of queso fresco boldly enhanced with epazote, cilantro and onions ($12).
Pollo chile verde ($15) is the dish I’d come back for, with a richly layered sauce and cilantro rice. Caramelized pork shoulder ($18) features big chunks of meat on a cabbage salad. I can see why it’s a favorite, but I felt the orange in the sauce needed more serrano chile balance.
Two desserts ($4) offer a soothing respite: a creamy, palate-coating caramel flan, and rice pudding with just the right amount of sweetness, pierced with rum-soaked raisins.
Service is still in the building phase and fluctuated from visit to visit. It can be slow, which may also be the result of kitchen backups.
On one visit, we arrived a few minutes before our third dining companion, and even though only a few tables were occupied, the host had a somewhat haughty attitude and refused to seat us until everyone was there.
However, the bar is welcoming and the bartenders stir up a good margarita ($10) with Pueblo Viejo Blanco Tequila, fresh lime and agave; and El Presidio ($11) with Partida Blanco Tequila, grapefruit, angostura bitters and soda water.
Getting to the restaurant can feel like a trek, but it’s a peaceful drive through eucalyptus stands and brick and wooden barracks. The former military base dates back to 1776; when it closed in 1995, it was the longest continuously operating military base in the United States.
Arguello plays into the history by celebrating the importance of the Mexican population to the area. It’s nice that Des Jardins is of Mexican descent, but being a great cook is the key.
★ ★ ½
Arguello
Food: ★ ★½
Service: ★ ★
Atmosphere: ★ ★ ★
Price: $$
Noise: Four Bells
50 Moraga Ave., in the Presidio, San Francisco; (415) 561-3650. www.arguellosf.com
Lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Friday; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday, until 4 p.m. Sunday. Diner 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday (bar menu 3-5 p.m.). Full bar. No reservations. Credit cards accepted. Paid lot (free after 6 p.m.)
Restaurant Review and Photos sourced from: http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/diningout/article/Contemporary-classic-Arguello-5953955.php
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