Causwells: Bold flavors at new Marina spot

To see how restaurant design has evolved in the last few decades, you need to look no further than Causwells, the American bistro that replaced the nearly 40-year-old Bechelli’s next to the Presidio Theatre in the Marina.

Two well-charred patties make up the beefy bulk of the burger which is served
                  on a toasted sesame bun with chips. Photo: John Storey, FRE / Special To The Chronicle                 

That diner-like restaurant had a horseshoe counter, black-and-white tile floor and vinyl booths. It also served classic American food that, in its waning years, seemed tired and dated.
Causwells owners Alvin Garcia and Tom Patella started with a similar idea of serving American food — yes, you can get deviled eggs (three halves, $6.25) but, like the rest of the restaurant, even this dish detours from expectations. One is classic, with mustard and paprika; another is piped with dots of avocado mousse; and the third is topped with flakes of smoked trout.
The owners gutted the interior, leaving much of the underbelly intact, including the concrete floor and an unpainted wall between the bar and open kitchen that’s mottled with age. The dining room has close-together wood tables inlaid with granite, and straight-back wood banquettes that are long on style and short on comfort.

Tomato salad with frisee and cornmeal-crusted okra.
                 Photo: John Storey, FRE / Special To The Chronicle                 

In another nod to the restaurant’s heritage, the designers used the fluted pedestal bases of Bechelli’s bar stools as pendant light fixtures, while accent colors pick up the colors of the theater outside the storefront windows. They also added sound panels to the ceiling, so while the noise is robust when the place is full, it’s still possible to have a conversation without shouting.
Chef Adam Rosenblum, who worked in New Orleans and on the East Coast before he ended up as sous chef at Flour + Water last year, serves food that incorporates many of these influences on a shareable menu.

The concrete floor and mottled wall remain as part of the redesigned interior of
              Causwells in S.F. Photo: John Storey, FRE / Special To The Chronicle                 

From the South, there’s a good version of dirty rice ($6.50) with chicken livers and ground pork, and excellent grits with white gulf shrimp and house-made andouille ($13.50). There’s also a nod to Parker House rolls ($4.50), but rye flour makes them dense and chewy instead of soft and buttery. Doughnuts from nearby All Star Donuts go into the bread pudding ($8.25), truly the way to end the meal.
Rosenblum makes pastrami ($14.75), which is cut into four smoky cubes, offset by a line of rye bread crumbs, swirls of creamy mustard and quenelles of onion jam. It all comes together in a breezy, modern way.
His hamburger ($14.50) features two well-charred patties sandwiching slices of American cheese; it’s served on a toasted sesame bun with Thousand Island-like sauce spiked with cayenne. It’s admirably thick, juicy and messy, but the anemic potato chips alongside don’t do it justice. I’ll take fries any day, but you won’t find them on the Causwells menu.
The chef’s fine-dining chops show on such preparations as roasted eggplant ($12.50) where pieces of the vegetable are arranged on a puree with a thick puddle of gypsy peppers, a few fresh cranberry beans and crunchy hazelnuts. He also pairs grilled octopus ($15.75) with garbanzo beans, licorice accents from fennel and just a dash of chile. It’s good, but needs a brightening jolt of acid.
The presentation bisects the square plate, as does the tomato salad ($12.50). But there the similarity ends. The chunks of tomato are arranged with frisee, deep-fried cornmeal-crusted okra, Jimmy Nardello peppers and squiggles of melon vinaigrette. It shows how Rosenblum blends cultures in distinctive ways.
However, not everything measures up, including chewy, bland steak tartare ($15) with an unfortunate sweet note. I’d skip it and head for the house-made ricotta ($9.75) drizzled with rosemary honey and flanked by crispy lavash.
The large plates also include a sliced brined chicken breast ($18.50) with the excellent dirty rice and a natural sauce made with \pPilsner; it’s a pleasant combination. There’s also grilled steak ($22.50) with tiny potatoes and salsa verde, and a fillet of wild king salmon ($21.50) with brown butter on a corn salad.
It’s the type of bold food that’s become popular as bars and restaurants merge into a single entity and make a diner crave a well-made Manhattan or a shot of Tequila. However, Causwells offers just beer and wine, which can be a slight letdown given the tenor of the surroundings and the food. However, they make up for it with a strong 20-item by-the-glass list ($8-$15) and 27 bottle choices, four draft beers ($5-$6) and 18 bottled beers.
Service, like the food, is more evolved than you’ll find in many bar-restaurant hybrids. The sequence of dishes is well timed, and the staff brings utensils for sharing, although at times we needed to ask for fresh plates.
In many ways, the eclectic menu might seem a little disjointed, but Rosenblum brings it together in a way that honors his background, his current surroundings and the restaurant’s heritage. Yes, it would have been nice for Bechelli’s to have survived, but Causwells is a fine follow-up.
★★½
Causwells
Food: ★★½
Service: ★★½
Atmosphere: ★★ ½
Prices: $$
Noise rating:
Four Bells

2346 Chestnut St. (at Scott Street), S.F.

(415) 447-6081.

www.causwells.com

Lunch and dinner 11:30 a.m.-1 a.m. Monday-Friday, brunch and dinner 9 a.m.-1 a.m Saturday-Sunday.
Beer and wine. 3% S.F. surcharge. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Easy street parking.


For a complete photo set and original article, visit:  http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/diningout/article/Causewells-Bold-flavors-at-new-Marina-spot-5767397.php#photo-6877118